About Bandipur

Bandipur is a collection of small villages nestled on the hilly ridges of the Tanahun district in western Nepal. These hills, located 1,000 meters above sea level and near the Indian Gangetic plains (Terai), provided an ideal environment for the villages to thrive, particularly due to their natural spring water sources. The name “Bandipur” itself, derived from the ethnic Magar language, means “forest water.”

The oldest villages on the hilltop ridges of Bandipur, such as Baralthok and Silthok, are predominantly inhabited by the Magar people, one of Nepal’s indigenous hill communities. The Magar people once ruled much of central Nepal, from around 800 to 1200 years ago, under the Bahrah Magarath (12 Magar States), with their capital in Tansing, now known as Tansen, in the Palpa district.

The name “Bandipur” was first recorded in history over 500 years ago during the reign of King Mukunda Sen of Tansing, Palpa. Mukunda Sen ascended to the throne after his father, Rudra Sen, captured the capital from the Magars. Mukunda Sen expanded his kingdom significantly, extending its reach all the way to the Koshi River in the east and even attacking Kathmandu, then known as Nepal.

After his conquests, King Mukunda Sen returned to Tansing, stopping in Bandipur to rest for a few days. During his stay, he wandered the villages in disguise and spent the night at an old woman’s house. The woman served him a variety of delicious foods, but he mixed them all together before eating. Offended, the old woman scolded him, saying that each dish had its own unique taste and should be appreciated individually. She also admonished him not to behave like King Mukunda Sen, who was trying to unite everyone into one.

The King, realizing the wisdom in her words, felt deep regret. That night, he repented his wars and left his sword in the old woman’s house. Upon returning to his capital, he abdicated the throne to his four sons and spent the rest of his life in seclusion at Devghat. His kingdom was divided into Palpa (Tansen), Butwal, Tanahun, and Makwanpur.

The old woman kept the sword safe, thinking the stranger might return for it. However, as time passed, she began experiencing difficulties in her home. She called a Jhakri, or Shaman, who discovered that the sword was the source of her troubles. He explained that the sword was extremely powerful and needed to be removed from the house through religious rituals. A temple, Khadga Devi Temple, was then built to house the sword, which is still worshipped by the Magar people every year on the eighth day of Dashain.

Even half a millennium ago, Bandipur was already a significant trading hub with several villages, primarily inhabited by the Magar ethnic group. It is said that over 11 villages surrounded Bandipur even before the unification of Nepal.

During the unification of Nepal around 250 years ago, Tanahun was ruled by King Trivikram Sen, a descendant of King Mukunda Sen. In 1745 AD, King Prithivi Narayan Shah of Gorkha began the unification of Nepal by capturing Nuwakot, a crucial Himalayan pass. Fearing Gorkha’s expansion, King Bir Mardan Shah of Lamjung attacked Gorkha, only to be defeated.

King Trivikram Sen, worried about an attack from King Prithivi Narayan Shah despite their alliance, fled from Tanahunsur to Bandipur. The kings of Tanahun had never lost a battle on the cliffs of Bandipur, so King Prithivi Narayan Shah sought a peace deal. However, in 1756 AD, the King of Tanahun was captured during a secret meeting, though Bandipur itself remained unconquered, with the prince and his army holding out against the Gorkhalis.

King Prithivi Narayan Shah, with the support of King Ranjeet Malla of Bhaktapur, eventually captured other Newari states, shifting his capital to Nepal in 1769 AD. Bandipur, however, was not annexed into Nepal until 1782 AD, during the reign of Queen Rajendra Laxmi Devi, more than 25 years after Tanahun was captured.

Modern History of Bandipur

The modern history of Bandipur began with the arrival of Newars from Bhaktapur. When King Ranjeet Malla was forced into exile in India, many of his courtiers and citizens fled Bhaktapur, dispersing across Nepal and India. A small group of these migrants discovered Bandipur and began to settle there. At that time, Bandipur was still under the rule of King Hari Dutta Sen, the son of King Trivikram Sen of Tanahun. Even after the Gorkhalis eventually captured Bandipur, the Newars continued to live and thrive there.

These Newar settlers, experienced traders from Bhaktapur, quickly capitalized on Bandipur’s strategic location. Within a century, following the Anglo-Nepalese War, the Newars of Bandipur emerged as some of the region’s most prominent traders. Bandipur Bazaar soon became one of central Nepal’s largest markets, and Bandipur itself grew in prominence, becoming the capital of the Tanahun district.

During the rule of the Rana Prime Ministers in Nepal, the Newars of Bandipur had already begun trading with British India. Bandipur Bazaar saw the arrival of textiles from London, and the market flourished further. Bandipur even became a center for currency exchange for travelers to India and a major route for Gorkhali soldiers during World War I and II. The prosperity of that era is still evident in the houses built by Newar traders in the bazaar, many of which were constructed about 100 years ago by Newari builders from Bhaktapur. At its peak, the bazaar was a bustling modern town with stone-paved streets and rows of shops, including over 25 cloth shops. Bandipur was also home to the first library outside Kathmandu, established in honor of the reigning Rana, Padma Sumsher. Bandipur was in its heyday, and its people played an active role in the 1950 revolution against the autocratic Rana regime, with some even being executed in the process.

However, Bandipur’s fortunes changed in the 1970s during the reign of King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah. The construction of a motorable highway from Kathmandu to Pokhara bypassed Bandipur due to its steep hilltop location. This modern development drastically altered trade and travel routes, leading to the decline of Bandipur’s business and prosperity. The district capital was eventually moved to a town along the highway. Despite efforts by the people of Bandipur to resist this change, including revolts against the army and administration, Bandipur’s decline was inevitable. Most of the Newari traders migrated to other areas connected by the highway, leaving Bandipur isolated on its hilltop with poor road access. In a short time, Bandipur transformed from a bustling district capital to a near-ghost town.

Fortunately, as people began to leave Bandipur, the local administration issued an order prohibiting the sale or demolition of houses. These large, empty houses later became a foundation for the development of schools and hostels, turning Bandipur into an educational hub for the region’s aspiring youth.

At the end of the 20th century, during Nepal’s Maoist conflict, Bandipur suffered further damage, with schools and other institutions targeted. However, as the new millennium dawned, Bandipur began to experience a revival as a tourist destination, thanks to its rich heritage, natural environment, and one of the best Himalayan panoramas. Former residents of Bandipur who had migrated to Kathmandu, along with European aid, began investing in the town, transforming former hostels into hotels. This marked the beginning of Bandipur’s renaissance as a sought-after tourist destination.